Contributors

26 August, 2009

Rifle

Rifle

For me Rifle is the next step in the climbing scene. Rifle offers some of the hardest sport climbing in the area. I have been there a hand full of times, but just recently I have come to realize how sick Rifle really is and I know that to push my self to the next level of climbing I need to spend time in a place that has lots of climbs above my level.

Last Sunday and Monday I was climbing in Rifle and helping out with the 13th annual rifle clean up, hosted by Wolverine Publishing. After the clean up it was time to start the sending. The first day I was there I didn’t have much time to climb but was able to get an 11d flash and 12c flash, the next day I was feeling strong and wanted to get on something hard, so I did. American Prayer was my pick, at 5.14 I knew it was hard but I also knew it was like a V10 boulder problem to 5.12 climbing so I was confident. I tried it 5 or so time before I stuck the crux move and finished the climb. To most people American Prayer is not the most inspiring line because it’s so short, but I have to say the numbers, “five point one four” is intimidating and was a major mental break through for me. I feel stronger then ever and am way psyched to get back to Rifle for some more crushing.

I’m working on a pair of nee bar pads and am itching to get back on Zulu. If I was rifle I would be afraid because not only am I back (this years Jr. nationals were disappointing for me) but I have more confidence then ever. I should also mention that I got to climb with Jon Sherman J and he actually watched me send American Prayer! When I go back to Rifle I am hoping to split a camp site with Jon that would be the sickness.

So many climbs so little time.

I also need to mention that my friend Josh Mitchell was there and not only was it his first time in rifle, but first time on long routes in a good bit. Not only did he have to work a 12 hour shift before he left he also had to work first 4hours he was in rifle, but when we got done we hade time to do two climbs. His first climb in rifle was a 12a flash called Gun’s and Posers (bad ass.)

Ian

01 August, 2009

Climbing

For the last year or so I have been training and climbing which is my passion. This is my life dream coming true. This may be my passion, but you still have to stay psyched, train and climb hard because there is always going to be the next hot shot wanting to take the spotlight. Someone stronger who does a spin off of what you do, a flip side trying to be serious. Now climbing for me is a passion and I live and dream about being outside climbing with my friends. My brother just got done with his spraying job in Wyoming and is ready to hit the rock again!!! You have to under stand something about my brother, he is the man! Not only can he climb hard, but he has an eye for any kind of photograph like you have never seen, cooks like a pro and is always psyched. My brother and I have been through a lot together and can handle any situation from cops on the highway to chicks at the crag, nothing can stop us (maybe a bear). Which brings me to the main part of my story, road trip! As of right now I am home based, but very soon I will be hitting the road and will be living the good life. Rifle is the first goal, I have a lot of climbs I need to crush there, Zulu, Crue, and Gomorrah... the list goes on. After that I have a friend who has been bolting climbs (location NA) and have some sick hard routes that need to go down. Not really sure after that I would like to climb Devil's Tower. Then its back in gear for both bouldering and sport climbing, say hello to Hueco for Three Months!!!